Appleton Innovation; Houdini, Paper Mills, Hydroelectricity, & the Arts

Appleton is a fairly small but vibrant town in eastern Central Wisconsin with less than 25 square miles. It is located 30 miles southwest of Green Bay and around 100 miles north of both Milwaukee and Madison, respectively.

Appleton was incorporated in 1857 and is the heart of a region called the Fox Cities that defines the northern shores of Lake Winnebago.

This region includes the cities of Kaukauna, Menasha, Neenah, and Oshkosh, as well as the villages/towns of Greenville, Combined Locks, Sherwood, Little Chute, and many others.

Appleton is famous for a surprisingly diverse collection of things which include being Harry Houdini’s claimed birthplace, the origin of both paper production and hydroelectricity, and home to one of the nation’s leading Liberal Arts colleges.

After graciously being led on a tour of this region and having Appleton as my oyster for a few days, I created a Top Ten list of  historical, cultural, and artistic sites.

From the outside, this row of windows does not let on to the beautiful stained glass pictorial narratives visible only in the museum lobby.

G* is a docent and artist that greets and guides visitors, if desired, through the meaning of these stained glass panels and his intricate diorama of Appleton in the 1950s.

His city in miniature depicts Appleton’s layout and the logistics of its river transport, paper production, and hydroelectricity systems.

Appleton’s geographical shape and economy were both greatly influenced by the Fox River, whose rapids have powered mills and factories for centuries.

Fox River Valley Indians were the first people to live here, and among them were the Meskwaki, Menominee/Mamaceqtaw, and the Ho-Chunk, later joined by the Oneida, Stockbridge-Munsee, and Brotherton people.

When European fur traders forcefully settled the area, competition for controlling resources and access to the river got ugly, and it eventually set off the French-Indian Wars in 1712.

Many places in Wisconsin retain their Native names, but you will also notice quite a bit of French names as well, like Butte des Morts, Fond du Lac, and Grand Chute.

Appleton itself was first called Ahkōnemeh, the Menominee phrase for the “watches for them” place.

New settlers that lived and worked in Appleton started building infrastructure, dams, and canal locks in the 1830s to manage the wild Fox River flowing through the area. That was the catalyst for developing its famed paper mills that were in full swing by 1870s.

A man named Hippolyte “Paul” Grignon built his estate and called it the White Heron in 1835. This was also the town trading post and inn, and it brought even more travelers and buyers to the area, many of which stayed after finding jobs that were not available elsewhere.

Appleton Paper Company was founded in 1907, and I discovered an unexpected connection of Appleton to my hometown of Dayton, Ohio.

Dayton’s famous National Cash Register company designed the first carbonless copy paper in the 1950s, and Appleton Paper Company (APC) manufactured it for them. This style of paper is still being printed and used now.

APC also had a plant in West Carrolton, a town very close to Dayton. In 2012, Appleton Paper Company changed its name to Appvion, a combination of the term “Appleton Innovation.” I laughed when I read that, because I had already chosen “Appleton Innovation” as the title of this blog. Serendipitous.

Read more about Appvion and its timeline here.

Fox Cities had the most paper mills of any region in the world, with nearly two dozen at the height of it.

The historic Fox River Mills district overlooks the Fox River and is full of lovely Italianate and Romanesque homes of former Lincoln Mills and Rag Mills industrialists.

Many of the mill’s original buildings have been or are currently being remodeled into luxury condos and student housing.

A private company still operates the district’s hydroelectric canal and generating station, which keeps the area history alive.

The historic Atlas Paper Mill started producing paper and wood products in 1878, later became the Paper Discovery Center, and is now home to the modern Atlas Science Center.

Atlas is one of Appleton’s top attractions where guests can make and take home their own sheet of paper. It opened in 2005 after the building was donated to the Paper International Hall of Fame as a gift from the Kimberly-Clark Company.

Another fun connection on this topic is that my grandmother once worked for a different Kimberly-Clark plant when she moved to the city I currently live in.

My friends drove me around a neighbourhood in Appleton where Kimberly-Clark had long ago built housing for their employees.

You can identify these adorable homes easily, as they come in pairs with a shared driveway and a small matching shed behind each house.

Here is an intensive academic review of paper production in the Fox Cities from Loyola University, and I also found this fascinating article about the daily lives and adventures of logging workers in Wisconsin’s “Sawdust Trail.”

Upstairs in the main hall of the History at the Castle, catch a screening of the brand new PBS.org production Wisconsin Hometown Stories; Appleton or click that link to view it for free online.

Other exhibits include reframing perspectives of Appleton through historic maps, a visual commentary on houselessness and houseless people in the area, and firefighting.

There is also an exhibit called A Stone of Hope about the experiences of Black citizens of the Fox Cities through times of segregation, Civil Rights, and the people who have helped Appleton cross the hurdle of its former “Sundown Town” reputation.

The star exhibit that brings the most visitors is about the famous escape artist, Harry Houdini.

Houdini claimed Appleton as his birthplace, though he was actually born Erich Weisz in Budapest. His family relocated to Appleton when he was four years old for his father’s new job.

It is possible that he did not recall life overseas during the first years of his life, or that he intentionally omitted them for various reasons.

Houdini’s family struggled to adapt to life in the US, especially after his father lost his job and became extremely ill.

At eight years old, young Houdini had to quit school to work and support his family. As he neared his teenage years, he ran away with the circus to hone his dream as a famous entertainer.

The AKA Houdini exhibit tells the story of his life on and offstage, and there are multiple reproductions of his most famous escape stunts that you can try out for yourself.

Learn more about his life and times in Appleton and abroad, and even the tragic story of his death in this exhibit.

2. HOUDINI PLAZA
So we got punked. My friends who live in Appleton have been told their entire lives that the house at 90 N Green Bay Road was Houdini’s former house, and I have even come across a few blogs online that say the same.

Upon further research, we learned that Houdini’s former house was actually in an apartment building that stood  where the Houdini Plaza is now. The house on Green Bay Road once belonged to a man named Gustavus Buchanan, a big wig for the local wire mesh factory.

I have been unable to determine the origin of the mix up, but it is incredibly amusing.

Some people have mentioned the “Houdini Historical Center” that seemed like a separate Houdini site I missed, but I found out that is just another name for the AKA Houdini exhibit at the History at the Castle.

Because of that, many people also mistakenly think the Castle building itself was Houdini’s former home.

Then there was me, fawning and taking photos of some dude’s house because I thought it was a historical site. Internet says so, too. I broke the news to my friends, and we laughed about it.

Appleton, why you trollin’ people like that?

Houdini Plaza is a public square right on College Avenue, Appleton’s main drag.

It spans further back toward the buildings behind it and the Trout Museum, and the lawn is often used for downtown events.

The tower in the center of the fountain showcases work by local artists, and each piece shows off some of Appleton’s most iconic locations.

Just a few yards from the fountains and tower, there is a life-sized bust of Houdini wrapped in a straight jacket. If you look closely you can spot a hairpin in one of his waves, and a key hidden behind his ear.

Sculptor Craig Campbell incorporated actual locks, chains, and hardware once used by Houdini in his live performances into the bust.

I have since found a website called Wild About Houdini that has an endless collection of fun facts and stories about the great escape artist.

3. HEARTHSTONE
Henry James “HJ” Rogers was the manager of Appleton Pulp & Paper Mill, and he had both an obsession and a vision for hydroelectricity.

In September of 1882, his home became the first residence in the entire world to be lit up by an Edison central hydroelectric station.

The Appleton Edison Light Company was the first commercial electric plant in the USA. The name was later changed to the Appleton Edison Light Company, and it was the source of power to the home.

Rogers had also become President of the company.

Rogers’ luxurious new Queen Anne Victorian home was first set up for gas lighting but he changed his mind last minute after a plant in New York was wired and successfully lit by the Edison system, and he had to have it too.

The spread of electricity in exchange for gas took off fast. Appleton was the first city in the nation to operate a successful, long-lasting, commercial electric streetcar line.

The first telephone in Wisconsin, the first incandescent lights outside of the USA East Coast, and an entire main street (College Avenue) lined with electric lights instead of gas lamps, all took place in Appleton.

The Rogers’ house is now called the Hearthstone Museum, but still has the original Edison switches, gears, and wiring. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and has availability for tours.

4. FARM MARKET
Appleton’s Downtown Farm Market takes place on Saturdays between 8 am and 12:30 pm, though the city tests its fire alarms at noon and people generally start wrapping up then.

I found this out by extreme surprise when an eerie blast of noise started echoing around the town and people scattered like bugs.

Local farmers, artists, and other vendors set up booths along both sides of College Avenue, from Houdini Plaza down to Lawrence University. In June and October it is outside, but moves indoors November through May.

I learned that the Marigold was declared official flower of Appleton in 2016.

Since the ’90s, locals have been planting  these sunny blooms to light up a segment of city blocks known as the Marigold Mile during warmer weather.

The Marigold Mile is an actual organization with a mission to beautify Appleton, and the planting area is on S. Oneida Street between the Skyline Bridge to Calumet Street.

Look up at flower boxes, on patio tables, and in shop windows and see how many you can find.

One of my priorities for this trip was to visit the five coffee shops along College Avenue, and I nailed it.

Despite the heat, walking around with friends, coffee in hand, sniffing soap and flowers, and listening to music was a dream. I have been to a LOT of Farmers Markets, but this one seemed extra special.

5. TROUT MUSEUM
The Trout Museum of Art is easily identified by the giant origami crane perched atop its entrance, just left of Houdini Plaza.

The museum store offers art and gifts from local and internationally famous artists.

The main hall was closed due to staff setting up the upcoming exhibit, but I was able to check out some work by local artist and Lawrence University alumna, Callie Kiesow.

She works with charcoal and plaster, dark and intricate designs, and the bulk of her work hung at the Trout Museum of Art involved draping of the human form.

I believe the Kiesows are a prominent family in town just like the Trout family, as I have seen that unique last name mentioned in many historical articles about Appleton.

The Trout Museum of Art has several community outreach programs like Project Purpose, the Spark! Program, art camps and workshops, and the annual Art at the Park festival.

During my visit, I noticed the Truth Booth, where visitors can sit and write out their worries or problems and leave them anonymously in a locked box.

Valerie Medina is the artist behind this project, and once she has gathered enough Truths, she will convert them into an exhibit in the main entrance to celebrate the bravery of people sharing their truths.

6. FOX TROT TRAIL
The Trout Museum is also the beginning spot for Appleton’s self-guided walking tour, the Fox Trot Trail.

Fox Trot Trail weaves a little over two miles to sixteen different stops, all notable landmarks in Appleton and across the Fox River, then brings you right back to where you started.

This is a wonderful to gather your bearings while visiting Appleton, or to take in some sights you have not seen before as a longtime resident.

Other ideas for walking tours that are shorter and longer than two miles can be found here on the Appleton Downtown website.

Appleton also has a strong bus system, and a free downtown trolley during weekends on warmer months so you can save those tired feet.

7. LIVE MUSIC
Appleton has a reputation for its burgeoning music scene that originated with Lawrence University and has grown exponentially since the creation of the Mile of Music festival. 

Lawrence University’s Conservatory of Music was created in 1894 and was(is) particularly outstanding for its equality and support for female musicians and vocalists.

The Conservatory of Music also hosted what were essential jam sessions that were open to the public, students and non-students, amateurs and professionals alike.

Heid Music and its summer concert series each Thursday night, the Fox Cities Performing Arts Center, and Gibson Community Music Hall are just a few of the venues that support local and touring acts year round.

8. LAWRENCE UNIVERSITY
The Lawrence Institute, now Lawrence University, was chartered in 1847 with the financial backing of a wealthy Bostonian philanthropist named Amos Lawrence.

He had the idea of curating a new city around a university, located on remote lands along the river.

This was a novel idea at the time, as historically most towns were established first and later built educational and cultural institutes. Once approved, the school was constructed, and crowds moved in immediately.

From the beginning, Lawrence University brought in famous and inspiring leaders, from Abolitionist and author Frederick Douglass to President William Taft.

The college became known as “Harvard of the Midwest.”

One of the last buildings to be finished was the campus church.

Amos Lawrence had built the university in association with the Methodist Church because he believed the upstanding and disciplined moral church leadership and congregation would have a positive effect on upcoming scholars, but he did not want religion to be the sole or driving force of his new university.

A private donor pledged over $60,000 to complete the church on the condition that the community match the amount, and the response was overwhelming.

There were enough funds to really go all out and even purchase some of the finest musical equipment.

Lawrence University also has a strong history of students and faculty demanding racial and gender equality, being unafraid to stand up for what they believe in, and willingness to take action or protest until positive changes are made.

One such protest in the 1970s was crucial in ending Appleton’s budding reputation as a “Sundown Town.”

Lawrence University was one of the first colleges in the country to offer co-education and to admit Black students, the first of which attended when it was just a prep school in 1857!

Lawrence University also introduced study abroad programs in Germany, France, Italy, and Spain in the 1960s to connect students with the world around them.

Equally significant, The Institute of Paper Chemistry was founded to train young students as engineers and to provide support to the region’s paper production industry.

9. SIDEWALK POETRY
Each year, the City of Appleton reviews and approves new poems by locals to be imprinted into downtown sidewalk squares.

This is such a lovely way for the community to expresses themselves and connect through written work. You can view a map and details about each poem by clicking here.

10. MURALS & MONUMENTS
Downtown Appleton has dozens of murals, monuments, historical markers, selfie spots, and quirky embellishments everywhere you look. Anyone who knows me knows that I am a mural hound, and here are some of my favourites.

These wild murals are on the exterior of The Fire, an art studio and supply.

This David Bowie mural can be found on the side of McFleshman’s Brewing Company.

Below is part of a mural in the McFleshman’s courtyard, on the Appleton Bicycle Shop building.

This one is on the side of the Taste of Thai restaurant, before you get to Lawrence University.

Voyageurs Bakehouse has this mural on its exterior.

This tree sculpture is located on College Avenue across from the Trout Museum of Art.

The downtown YMCA features this mural on one of its exterior walls.

There were so many more that I just could not get to, get a clear shot of, could not remember where they were, or that I will tell you about in my next blog on where to eat and drink downtown.

Each of downtown Appleton’s traffic control boxes are painted or wrapped with art by local K-12 students.

Other things I love about Appleton but are not necessarily Must-See historic or cultural sites:

• Diversity. I was delighted to see a string and wreath of Ristras, a mostly Latin/Hispanic tradition that is often used as a home blessing, prayer of protection, and symbol of welcoming.
• The historic Zuelke building and a wide variety of Art Deco, Neo-Gothic, and Victorian architecture.

The Zuelke Building is used for residential lofts now, but when the sun hits it just right you can see those fancy Zs reflecting sun rays all across the city.

• The windows of this mystery building, with the light shining through beer-bottle bottom shapes, late in the evening.

• Learning that Edna Ferber, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of the novel-turned-film Cimarron, and actor Willem Dafoe, and U.S. Senator Joseph McCarthy once lived in and walked the streets of Appleton.
• The number of parks in Appleton! There are 28 parks in Appleton, and that is more than one for every square mile. Memorial Park is the largest, but City Park is the oldest. Pierce Park hosts car shows, swap meets, and concerts throughout the year. Jones Park seems to be the local favourite, from what I have heard.

I already have my list going for the return visit. This will be when it is cooler outside and I am not being baked alive by a cruel sun, or perhaps when I gain some heat tolerance (yah, right), or at least stop drinking hot coffee when it is hot outside. Yah, I don’t think that will happen either.

The list includes the Bubolz Nature Preserve, the Butterfly Gardens of Wisconsin, the Gardens of Fox Cities, and  the Paine Art Center & Botanical Gardens in Oshkosh. I would also love to explore the Neenah, Menasha, and some of the other towns of the Fox Cities. Here’s looking at October or March.

Want to know about the coffee shops, restaurants, and breweries in Appleton?

I got you. Stay tuned, because I will have it posted soon.

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